The Broadstone Line of the Royal Canal

If you’ve come to this page after walking from Connolly Station to Newcomen Bridge and then to Cross Guns Bridge, as described on this page, welcome back.

In 1790 the Earl of Westmoreland, the Lord Lieutenant, laid the first stone of a lock at Phibsborough, at what is now Cross Guns Bridge. At the time, the lock and the bridge were named after the Earl, and the Ordnance Survey map of 1907/11 still shows his name (you can switch to the Historic 6″ map, from around 1840, and the Historic 25″, around 1900).

But even the OS map of 1837/44 shows the lock as the fifth, with four more (nos 4, 3, 2 and 1) between that point and the Royal Canal Docks, and another lock, a sea lock, between there and the Liffey. So why did the Earl start at 5 rather than 1?

The answer is that the terminus of the Royal Canal, as originally conceived, was not at the Liffey but at the Broadstone. Indeed, in evidence to the Railway Commissioners, whose Second Report was published in 1838, the Royal Canal Company Engineer, Mr Tarrant, said that the canal had two branches: one went to Longford while the other “branch from the Broadstone level is 2 miles, when it enters the River Liffey”.  The line to the Liffey was clearly of less importance; the harbour at the Broadstone was close to the city markets and to many institutions including the Richmond Penitentiary, the Richmond Lunatic Asylum, the North Dublin Union Workhouse, the Female Penitentiary, the Linen Hall and the Queen’s Inns (it’s useful to look around the area on the older Ordnance Survey maps). There was a Royal Canal Hotel at the Broadstone and that was where the (passenger-carrying) passage-boats left from.

The Broadstone Harbour with King’s Inns in the background, early 1820s

As it happens, the Royal Canal Company quickly realised that there was more money to be made from grants for extending the canal to the Liffey, and on 10 April 1809 William Gregory, Secretary to the Directors General of Inland Navigation, certified that

The Extension of The Royal Canal to Coolnahay (six Miles beyond Mullingar) with the Harbour and Aqueduct near Dublin, and the Docks and Communication with the Tide Water in the Liffey are finished.

The phrase “Broadstone Branch” suggests that it was less important than the line from Royal Canal Docks (the Spencer Dock was a later addition, north of the Royal Canal Docks); that’s why I’ve used the phrase “Broadstone Line”. And, thanks to Dublin Corporation, most of the route has been preserved and can still be visited today.

This photo was taken from a car on Whitworth Road, looking (more or less) south. The red and grey building is Dakota Court, a block of flats, which is covering much of the old junction between the Broadstone Line and the Docks Line. Whitworth Road is separated from Dakota Court by the railway and the Royal Canal.

Incidentally, Whitworth Road runs alongside the Porterhouse North pub, north of Cross Guns Bridge, one of the very few Irish pubs that serves any good beer … although there is much to be said for a pint of Guinness in the Gravedigger Kavanagh’s.

Looking across canal and railway from Whitworth Road

Looking south across canal and railway at Dakota Court from Whitworth Road

Having driven a little to the west, turned south to cross Cross Guns Bridge and turned left (east) on to Royal Canal Bank, we can look further east along the front of Dakota Court. The Royal rises particularly steeply from sea level at the Liffey until Blanchardstown: apart from the sea lock (now being restored), there are twelve locks, eight of them doubles (staircase pairs in British canalspeak; in Ireland a double counts as one lock). There are three of them in the stretch from Cross Guns Bridge (behind us here) to Binns Bridge, less than half a mile away to the east. We’re looking at No 4 (you can see the black and white beams) while No 5, opened by the Earl of Westmoreland, is behind us, above Cross Guns Bridge.

Dakota Court flats conceal the junction's east bank

Dakota Court flats conceal the junction’s east bank

The flats were built over the eastern edge of the junction with the Broadstone Line. That’s particularly regrettable because there was a dry dock on the bend.

There doesn’t seem to have been any provision for a bridge across the start of the Broadstone Line. Any horse-drawn boat travelling to or from the Docks at the Liffey would have had to either travel at least half way down the Broadstone Line or use the north bank as the towpath between Cross Guns and Binns bridges. If anyone knows how this problem was solved, please let me know.

Dakota Court down to 4th Lock

Dakota Court down to 4th Lock

The western side of the junction is better defined and, as the name of the road is Royal Canal Bank, we can be assured that we’re in the right area. The grassy area was, I suspect, where the canal ran.

The west bank at the junction: Royal Canal Bank (looking south)

The west bank at the junction: Royal Canal Bank (looking south)

There are pay-and-display parking spaces down past the grassy area, so let’s drive down there and park the car. Looking back north from the parking area, we see a white building where the canal used to be. Note also that the road nowadays crosses the canal line here; just out of sight it turns sharp right and climbs to the North Circular Road.

The white building from the car-park

The white building from the car-park

If we walk back north, past the white building, we get a better view of the line of the canal.

Looking north up the line of the canal from the car-park

Looking north up the line of the canal from behind the white building

Mountjoy Prison is to the right: it’s where, according to Brendan Behan, the old triangle went jingle-jangle along the banks of the Royal Canal. There is a side entrance into the complex here; the photo below is taken from the lane leading towards that entrance, looking north …

Looking north from halfway up

Looking north from halfway up

… while the next one is from the same place, looking south, towards the white building again. I think that the dockyard was in to the left at this point, with two dry docks: these were in addition to the dry dock at the junction.

Looking south from halfway up

Looking south from halfway up

A quick peek into the prison. I think that the building on the right is a fairly new car park (it’s not on the Google Maps photo, which shows an open car park instead) and that it’s covering the dockyard.

Looking east from halfway up

Looking east from halfway up

There’s a mix of old and new houses on the west side of Royal Canal Bank …

Looking west from halfway up 1

Looking west from halfway up 1

… with several lanes leading up through them.

Looking west from halfway up 2

Looking west from halfway up 2

Return to the car-parking area and, facing south, take this lane up to the North Circular Road. Turn around and look back north, to where we’ve just come from.

Looking north up the lane 1

Looking north up the lane 1

And to the west, we can look along the North Circular Road towards Doyle’s Corner (if it’s still called that).

Looking west to Doyles Corner

Looking west to Doyles Corner

What we’re standing on is (or was) Blacquiere Bridge (Sir John Blacquiere was a director of the Royal Canal Company). Google Books will find Ireland Illustrated: from original drawings by George Newenham Wright, 1831, and you can see a drawing, from this bridge, of two turf-boats moving on the Broadstone Line. This is a second shot looking north up the lane, with a corner of the Phibsborough Library on the right.

Looking north up the lane 2

Looking north up the lane 2

Here is the Library itself: an elegant building, beautifully fitted out inside with wooden shelves and a wooden area for the staff just inside the door. It was very busy when I visited it, but the staff were nonetheless helpful to a stranger. Shortly after it opened in 1936, it was issuing an average of 900 volumes daily, with up to 1500 on Saturdays. We can deduce, I think, that this section of the canal was filled in before 1936, and Ruth Delany in Ireland’s Royal Canal 1789–1992 The Lilliput Press Dublin 1992 says it was infilled in 1927.

Looking north at the Library in the Canal

Looking north at the Library in the Canal

Library opening hours

Library opening hours

This building is to the east of the bridge: note that the Royal Canal Bank, having crossed the canal, emerges beside this building.

The north-east corner of the bridge

The north-east corner of the bridge

Royal Canal Bank nameplate

Royal Canal Bank nameplate

Here’s a photo taken from outside the library looking south towards Blacquiere Bridge. Had the canal not been infilled, this shot would have shown the water under the bridge (but then the photographer would have got wet).

Looking south from the Library

Looking south from the Library

The next shot is taken from the (north side of the) bridge itself, looking south. The big wall on the right was the State Cinema.

In September 1933 the Lord Mayor of Dublin, Alderman Alfie Byrne TD, opened “Dublin’s new play centre”, a “boon for city children”, a “tasteful park that had now been laid out by the Corporation on what was some six years ago a canal waterway.” It included an enclosed area for children up to the age of fourteen, where they could play in safety. The Carnegie UK Trust had contributed £500 and the keys were presented to Mr Charles E Jacob, Hon Treasurer of the Civics Institute. The making of the park had provided work during a period of high unemployment — and the scheme preserved the line of the canal.

Looking south from the bridge

Looking south from the bridge

You can’t drive in from the North Circular Road, but you can walk down the steps by the side of the cinema. There is access for vehicles from further south.

The wall of the cinema dominates the steps

The wall of the cinema dominates the steps

The linear park runs along the left side of Royal Canal Bank.

Royal Canal Bank south of the bridge

Royal Canal Bank south of the bridge

Here’s a shot looking back up north to the bridge.

Looking north to the bridge

Looking north to the bridge

The whole thing is beautifully kept: a credit to Alfie Byrne and his successors.

Looking south along the linear park

Looking south along the linear park

Geraldine Street comes in from the east, dividing the park.

Geraldine Street from the Royal Canal Bank

Looking east to Geraldine Street from the Royal Canal Bank

Looking north along the linear park from Geraldine Street

Looking back north along the linear park from Geraldine Street

Looking south along the linear park from Geraldine Street

Looking south along the linear park from Geraldine Street

To the east is the entrance to one of Dublin’s little-known gems, the Blessington Street Basin, completed in 1814, which supplied the north side of Dublin with water drawn from the Royal Canal. It also supplied Bow Street Distillery (originally owned by Haigs and later by Jamesons) until well into the twentieth century. I gather that its tranquillity may have been threatened at one stage ….

The entrance to the Blessington Street Basin

The entrance to the Blessington Street Basin

If you spot this remarkable house, you’re opposite the entrance to the basin.

House opposite the basin

House opposite the basin

The photos of the basin need no commentary.

The Blessington Street Basin 1

The Blessington Street Basin 1

The Blessington Street Basin

The Blessington Street Basin 2

Looking north along the western edge of the basin

Looking north along the western edge of the basin

Looking towards the south bank of the basin

Looking towards the south bank of the basin

Looking south-east across the basin

Looking south-east across the basin

The north-east corner

The north-west corner

The north-east corner

The north-east corner

The island

The island

Back on the line of the canal, we notice it curves around to the right. The canal crossed Constitution Hill from east to west on the Foster Aqueduct, to reach the Broadstone Harbour.

Approaching the southern end of the Royal Canal Bank

Approaching the southern end of the Royal Canal Bank

The line curves towards the (former) aqueduct and the Broadstone

The line curves towards the (former) aqueduct and the Broadstone

In 1845, the Midland Great Western Railway Company (MGWR) bought the Royal Canal. Doing so allowed it to run its lines beside the canal, which it did most of the way to Mullingar, without having to conduct lengthy negotiations about wayleaves with individual landowners. The company built a terminus at the Broadstone, with a pontoon bridge (which was moved out of the way when boats entered or left the harbour) to provide passengers with access to the station.

The Broadstone, from The Tourist’s Illustrated Hand-Book for Ireland 3rd ed David Bryce, London 1854

In 1877, the company did away with that nuisance by filling in the harbour and adapting the Foster Aqueduct to provide access to the station from a new road, later called Western Way. The canal traders were provided with a turning circle and a wharf on the east side of the former aqueduct and they no longer used the Broadstone.

Triangular patch north of Western Way

Triangular patch (part of turning circle?) north of Western Way

The Foster Aqueduct itself was removed in 1951 to allow road-widening, but you can stand on Western Way and try to imagine what it looked like.

Landmark building on the far side of Western Way

Landmark building on the far side of Western Way

Landmark for pedestrian exit to Western Way

Landmark for pedestrian exit to Western Way

Alternatively, you can go to Constitition Hill and visit the Broadstone itself.

Broadstone Avenue off exit to Constitution Hill

Broadstone Avenue off exit to Constitution Hill

I wouldn’t want to suggest that anyone should travel a little further south, turn right and just drive in to the open car park in front of the Broadstone: after all, someone probably owns it. You could walk up this ramp-plus-steps instead.

Pedestrian access to the Broadstone from Phibsborough

Pedestrian access to the Broadstone from Phibsborough

At the top, there is a stone edge (the further line of stone in this photo). Could it possibly be a remnant of the line of the canal leading in to the harbour? It’s difficult to be certain from the old maps, but it looks as if the canal widened out somewhat after it had crossed the aqueduct. It then headed south-west before turning south and broadening into the expanse of the harbour, which stretched almost as far south as the Queen’s Inns. There is a copy of an 1818 painting of the harbour on the National Library’s website (HT Michael Slevin).

Possible edge of canal harbour 1

Possible edge of canal harbour 1

Possible edge of canal harbour 2

Possible edge of canal harbour 2

There is a statue where I think the aqueduct came in.

The statue on the aqueduct

The statue on the aqueduct

This next photo is taken from near the statue, looking across to Western Way. The line of the canal is in behind the nearer set of buildings.

Looking from the Broadstone across the absent aqueduct

Looking from the Broadstone across the absent aqueduct

Turning back inside the harbour area, this photo looks more or less to the south, probably down the harbour. The MGWR terminus building is behind the photographer.

Looking down the harbour

Looking down the harbour

The Broadstone terminus was just one — admittedly the most imposing — of several railway buildings that took over the site. In a way, its splendour proclaimed the victory of the railway over the canal. But its glory was not to last. In September 1929, it was announced that, following the purchase of the Irish Omnibus Company by the Great Southern Railway, the Broadstone terminus was to become a bus garage, with most trains being transferred to Amiens Street. Eventually the trains left altogether.

MGWR HQ 1

MGWR HQ 1

MGWR HQ 2

MGWR HQ 2

MGWR HQ 3

MGWR HQ 3

A car-free photo taken in October 2011

Back down to street level for another few photographs. This is I think the western abutment of the aqueduct (or part of it).

Street-level view of western abutment (from south)

Street-level view of western abutment (from south)

Street-level view of the statue

Street-level view of the statue

Stone beneath the pebbledash

Stone beneath the pebbledash

And this is looking across the widened road to where the canal was.

Street-level view of the far side of the aqueduct

Street-level view of the far side of the aqueduct

The Foster Aqueduct

The Foster Aqueduct (courtesy Pat Conneely)

Then back up the ramp-and-steps …

The ramp and steps back up

The ramp and steps back up

… for a final look at the Broadstone. I know it was responsible for killing a canal, but surely the MGWR building deserves better than this: locked away, practically invisible, and with its immediate surroundings detracting from its appearance. Perhaps these people have the right idea.

Farewell to the Broadstone

Farewell to the Broadstone

My January 2010 review of Ruth Delany’s and Ian Bath’s updated book on the Royal Canal is on the Irish Times website.

There is an account of the Broadstone’s history on the Irish History Podcasts site. You can download a PDF description of recent archaeological excavations, with results relevant to an understanding of the harbour, here.

If you are following the suggested walking route around the Dublin canals, go to this page, which will take you from the abandoned line of the Royal Canal to the abandoned line of the Grand Canal, with some comments on pubs, swimming and Guinness barges along the way.

Another Royal Canal walk, from Dunsink to Broombridge, is described — with a free downloadable podcast — on this site.

If you are down wid da kidz in da technological hood, and know what QR Codes and NFC Tags are, and have one of those newfangled telephone devices, be aware that you get get more information as you visit some places along the Royal Canal; and if you’re still, like me, trying to get to grips with the non-existence of telephones with dials, you can print information in advance from Canals of Dublin, which explains all about the scheme.

58 responses to “The Broadstone Line of the Royal Canal

  1. Hello,
    Its strange to read about the Broadstone Extension, my myself & my brother Frank have just returned from Ireland where we have been walking the Royal Canal ( and doing a bit of fishing along the way ), as kids this was our play ground. We used to play in the dry dock before it was filled in to build the Dakota Printing works. I remember standing at the cross Guns Bridge with my Dad watching the last barge go down the canal i think it must have been 1953. Its so good to see that they have re-generated so much of it, they need to declare it a national park. We were never aware until your article that the canal went to Broadstones as it was filled in before we were born. The drainage for the drydock passed back into the canal below the next set of locks via a stream which we called the ‘ Micky Murry’ it was a was a test of courage to be able to jump over the stream.

  2. That’s really interesting; thanks for posting your comment! I hadn’t realised about the outlet from the dry dock, but now you mention it I can see that the Ordnance Survey map of 1907 shows something looking like a stream between the towpath and the wall of the prison. Would that be it? And have you any idea why it was called Micky Murry? Was the dock kept full (of water) or empty when you knew it?

    The Ordnance Survey map also shows a crane on the bank outside the dry dock. I suppose that was gone when you were playing there?

    If you have any more information or memories, do please post them here!

    bjg

  3. Replying to myself to pass on some more information from Andy Clarke. He says:

    “Just a bit more info from older brother Frank. The dry dock was empty from 1955, and the crane was used to move limestone blocks that were stored along the side of the dock prior to being moved to the dressing yard which was beside the library. I remember watching the big cutting saw in action. Frank tells me the the name Micky Murry was the local kids’ name for the drainage stream.”

    Has anyone else got memories of the dry dock or other aspects of the Broadstone line?

  4. Was there also a railway running from Whitworth Road to Broadstone? If so, was that along the bank of the canal spur?

  5. John

    Thanks for your questions. The Broadstone was a railway terminus after the Royal Canal was bought by the MGWR; it became the steam depot for Dublin in 1937, before it became a bus garage and Bus Éireann’s HQ.

    However, the MGWR had to keep the canal going, so canal and railway were in operation at the same time. The railway line approached the Broadstone from about north-north-west. You can still see where it passes under the North Circular Road and the New Cabra Road, and if you use Google Maps, select the satellite view and ask it to find Broadstone Dublin, you can follow the line of the tracks. This link MAY work ….

  6. Thanks for your article, I visited Phibsborough recently and walked past the site of the aqueduct, I wondered why the ground was raised on both sides of the main road so this makes sense now.

    Can you tell me what the name was of the mill building next to Cross Guns bridge in the Victorian era?

  7. james mitchell

    i enjoyed this trip along royal canal it brought back beautiful memories we played and fed the ducks in the basin as children late 40s are there any photos of the aquaduct from constitution hill i would like to see them

  8. Thanks for your comment. I haven’t seen any photos of the aqueduct myself. If you’re in the area, I’d suggest dropping in to the Phibsboro Library: they have a small local history collection. There is a well-known drawing of the aqueduct (search google images for “foster aqueduct” + “dublin”). bjg

  9. If I’m interpreting Bernard Neary (A History of Cabra and Phibsborough) correctly, the mill was originally Robert Mallet’s Ironworks (known as Mallet’s Folly; Peter Clarke in The Royal Canal calls him John Mallett) up to 1860, when the Murtagh Brothers took over and set up the Dublin North City Milling Company. Ranks took over in 1957. bjg

  10. Thanks for the information, I’ve seen a reference to it being called ‘Shandon Mill’ but this may be a more recent title. I wonder why it was nicknamed Mallet’s Folly? John was a distant relative of mine hence the interest. He owned another foundry in Ryders Row (near Parnell street) which supplied the railings surrounding Trinity College on Nassau Street.

  11. Shandon [Park] Mill was the next mill up, closer to the sixth than to the fifth lock; Shandon Gardens is above the sixth.

    Googling for “Mallet’s Folly” (one T) gives several results, and I see that there was a Robert as well as a John. Neary gives no explanation for the name, unless we can deduce that it was awarded as a result of Mr Mallet’s giving his employees “a special day’s feast” and free beer to mark Queen Victoria’s coronation. bjg

  12. That’s helpful to know.

    Robert was his son and they co-owned the business. If you Google ‘Robert Mallet’ you’ll find a lot of info about him, he was a well respected engineer and scientist known as the founding father of Seismology. John became the High Sheriff of Dublin in the 1830′s.

  13. ‘Dublin: the city within the Grand and Royal Canals’ by Christine Casey has several references to J & R Mallet, two are relevant to this thread:

    M & GWR Broadstone station http://tinyurl.com/broadstone
    which mentions the canal and aqueduct and the foundry at Cross Guns Bridge

    http://tinyurl.com/crossguns

  14. My great grandfather William King Lived inPhibsboro and opened a Family Grocery and Italian Warehouse at 162/163/164 Phibsburo road on June 4th 1880.His son William M King built the Phibsboro Picture House in 1911.I would like to get more information about the above

  15. I’m afraid I can’t help you there: I don’t know much about anything other than waterways. I presume you’ve looked at the online 1911 census http://www.census.nationalarchives.ie/. I imagine the 1900 (or so) OS map would be interesting, but it’s no longer available on http://www.osi.ie. Would it be available in your local library? bjg

  16. Thanks, Richard: I’ll have to get that book. bjg

  17. Philip Shanahan

    There is a picture of the foster acqueduct from 1950s in “Lost Dublin” by Frederick O’Dwyer.

  18. Hi,
    very well done on your first class article on the broadstone Branch.Over the years the R.C.A.G organise walks from Binns Bridge to the 12th Lock. I outline the history of the Canal and also the local history alonh the line.(all wellcome,no charge). We will be walking again soon with Phibsfest and again all wellcome.
    Thank you for reference to my book,it it is common for people to use the information and not credit the author.
    You are correct when you saythat the existing 5th was the 1st lock when work started in1789.However at that time the line was to extend to Bolton St. to connect with the road going north.The Broadstone came later.I detail why in the book or my TCD thesis on the Canal.
    Again very well done,
    regards
    Peter Clarke

  19. Thanks, Philip. I have that book, but hadn’t thought to look at it. The structure is a massive one, all the larger because, O’Dwyer says, an iron cap was placed on top to carry a road. The photo seems to be from the collection of Maurice Craig and I presume it’s still in copyright, so I can’t put a copy here, but the book is well worth getting.

    bjg

  20. Peter: thanks very much for your comment. It’s nice to get a commendation from a real expert. I note what you say about Bolton St; thanks.

    This page is one of the most popular on my site, so people are interested in the Royal. I’d highly recommend Peter’s guided walks: the Royal in Dublin is stunningly attractive, with massive locks, wonderful stonework and lots of historic sites along the banks. The new is good too: the aqueduct crossing the M50 is a wonder to behold.

    Here’s a link to the Phizzfest (9-12 September 2010) and here’s one to the Royal Canal Amenity Group.

    bjg

  21. “Mallet’s Folly” was so called as although the mill was intended to be powered by water from the canal the rights were never granted.

    However the mill was put to good use producing spikes and bolts for the railways.

  22. I enjoyed your information on the Royal canal, as I grew up beside it in the 40/50 It was our playground. What you refer to as the Micky Murry we called the Lake why I dont know but we did jump it and sometimes into it. I also remember getting into the dry dock before Dakota bought it. Our parents didn’t allow us up the canal but we went anyway. I also remembr allowments on the banks by the prison. I rember the State being built before that it was called the Phiser. We wandered all the way to Broadstone along the park there was a playground at the end near the Broadstone. Memories.

  23. Eleanor: nice to hear from you. Do you remember any trading boats on the canal? I think Leech of Killucan ceased trading in the early 1950s, and he was the last to go.

    bjg

  24. I would have to recommend an article from the IWAI’s IWN that was commisioned by the then editor in 2001. It may be found at

    http://iwn.iwai.ie/v28i3/beatentrack.PDF

    Well I would, wouldn’t I :)

  25. And rightly so. Good point and good article. bjg

  26. I really enjoyed this article. I went to the site following a recent discussion on when the Broadstone branch was filled in.I grew up in Primrose Avenue in the 1940-50s and our play area was the Basin, Broadstone Station, the canal park and the canal behind the Library where we used swim and raft in the dry docks. My memory was that the stream around the ‘Joy’ was called Mickey Dudleys Stream. I learned to swim where that stream entered the canal opposite about midway on Whitworth Road. The Aqueduct and carpark outside Broadstone Station was surfaced with smooth tar, so we were all expert roller skaters! Our two favourite adventures were:
    1. Crossing the bridge on the OUTSIDE of the railings overlooking the traffic, which thankfully was much slower than now; and 2. Watching for cattle trucks with trailers coming up the hill past Temple Cottages and then going down the hill on our trolleys UNDER the oncoming trucks. Sometimes they would have just been washed out and the angle of the trucks would give us a very ‘aromatic’ shower! We used to get the trolley wheels in the CIE dump behind All Saints Church on Phibsboro Road. One summers day on the way back from the dump, there was a wedding in progress, so we decided to watch from the greenhouse while partaking of the vicar’s grapes. We were enjoying it so much that we failed to notice the Vicar sneaking up behind us. We were marched into the presbytery and after duly giving false names and addresses we were let off with a stern lecture on the 7th Commandment ”Thou shalt not steal”!

    By a curious coincidence, I later worked in Dakota Printing and even later I was involved in the production of Bernard Neary’s ”Dublin 7”. The final photograph in that book is one I took from my bedroom window looking across the Basin towards St. Joseph’s Church, Berkeley Road. I have a photograph of Foster’s Aqueduct which I will forward to you. There was a band stand in the centre of the park at the upper Basin gate. You new there was a band there not only by the music but also by the clouds of dust blowing across the top of Primrose Avenue. It was a very close community and I can recall almost all they families who lived in the 38 houses. Tahnks again.

  27. How can I email a jpeg of Foster’s Aqueduct to you?

  28. Thanks very much, Pat: great to have information from people who actually knew the place (I’m a southsider myself). bjg

  29. I’ve emailed you direct about this. bjg

  30. I was born and spent many happy childhood years in one of the four late Victorian houses ( St Catherine’s Terrace ) pictured here on Royal Canal Banks opposite the gate to the Blessington Basin. The children who lived on the Royal Canal Banks and the surrounding streets (Geraldine, Primrose, Myrtle, Auburn and Shamrock on the east side, and Phisboro Road, Kelly’s Lane, Bradstone Avenue and on the west side old canal park used the playground at the southern end of the Park.

    There were bandstand shows opposite our house on certain Sunday afternoons in high summer. An evening celidhe dancing show with pipers and kilted dancers was presented on alternate Wednesdays. The bandstand was built from the orignal canal stone, and they used to lay it up with dancing boards. We got our local groceries from Moore’s or the Auburn Dairy, and the big shopping from Liptons of Phibsboro crossroads on Saturdays. Old Missus Clitheroe sold whole fresh fish and sometimes shellfish from a pushcart on Fridays. Tel -el- Kebir Daries delivered the milk and DBC the bread and cake.

    My best friend was David Falls from Myrtle Street. Our immediate next door neighbour’s boys were a little older myself but were kind enough to indulge me with a ride on their ass and cart. These enterprising brother’s had a few pigs in a yard somewhere local and had a contract to collect the slops from local restaurants. I learned lots from these ‘big’ fellas, including a few words that were not popular at home when I tried them out on the folks. Miss Little, the elocution teacher was not impressed either, and sent for my parents. Needless to say it led to my first and not last serious spanking…….

    My favourite treat shops were The Black Cat for lollies and the shop made Italian Ice Cream at the Phibsboro’ Cafe on the Phisboro Road, and Savios Fish and Chipper on Berkeley Road. You got a slight headache if you ate youe ice cream too fast, so you licked all the raspberry syrup off it first until the Ice cream started to drip. The local Catholic church was St. Joseph’s, where I enjoyed the long fancy dresses the priests wore, the polyphonic choir, and the incense.

    I always wanted to know the name of the soldier in the I.R.A monument beside the State Theatre.

  31. David Falls actually lived in Primrose Avenue in a house facing down Auburn Street. I clearly remember this as he had a very attractive older sister, Olive! Ena Hoey, who owned the Auburn Dairy and also a sweet shop in Wellington Street, lived next door. Her brother, Jim, was Best Man at my parents wedding. I will send on a picture taken in the Basin where we used to play ‘Cowboys & Indians’. Olive is one of the girls; also a picture taken in the Basin by my father on Whit Monday 1944 in which there are 30 children, all named. I’m in the front with the six-shooter!
    The statue is dedicated to the local Irish Volunteers (Google IsabellaJ photos). Joe must remember a near neighbour of his, Mr. Mangan, who had a great collection of musical instruments and attempted to teach us to play. Sadly I never took advantage of this.
    Since my last comment I have wondered about the hooks in the pillars at the top of Geraldine Street. They look like they were giant hinges for gates. The canal would have been 8 or 10 feet below this level. They are a mystery! Further up the canal we had several swimming places. At the ‘Pin Mill’ and at the ‘Bends’ where the canal crossed the railway line from Heuston (then Kingsbridge) Station which ran under the Phoenix Park and through Glasnevin Cemetery and on down by Whitworth Road. Between the Bends and Broombridge there were old train carriages on a shunt line which we called the ‘Ghost Train’ and there was also a small farm. Still further up there was a great swimming place beyond Ashtown opposite a big house, Cherry Hall, owned by the Walton family of music fame. You didn’t have to be able to swim as one dive would take you across. You had to be quick to get out on the far side and dive back in as the bank was patrolled by very unfriendly Kerry Blues who seemed to like the taste of young swimmers! I saw one boy being caught and it wasn’t pretty!. In the summer, for those of us without bathrooms this was the ideal spot for the weekly outdoor bath, complete with soap!

  32. Hi my name is Freddie Hamilton my grandfather William and my father Freddie ran a shop and a wholesale business at 215 Phibsboro road which I think closed in the late 50s. Would anyone remember this I would really appreciate if there was someone who could recall this as I am still running the wholesale business.
    freddiehamilton@eircom.net

  33. Where was 215, in relation to Doyles Corner or Kellys Lane?

  34. Freddie Hamilton

    Hi Pat thank you for answering me 215 was south of doyles corner just past all saints anglican church on way to the Boadstone but on opposite side of the road. Alas it is gone now replaced by new townhouses. The shop and the wholesale business were all run from 215 and from the late 20s until the mid 50s they kept horses in a stable up a lane to the side of the shop which were used before they aquired delivery vans.My grandfather William came from manchester sometime between 1911 and 1918 when my father Freddie was born.I was not born until 1957 my grandfather had died in 1954 as I said I am still running the business from Kilcoole Co. Wicklow and would love to know does anybody remember the shop.

  35. Looking at the Google Map it seemed to be to the left of Kellys Lane (it has Kellys Lane and Phibsboro Place transposed!) I can’t recall a shop there. What kind of a shop was it? My friend Francis Byrne lived in Kellys Lane, in a very old low cottage just beside the pole in the centre of the lane. Off Kellys Lane there was a lane that ran parallel to Phibsboro Road. There were stables and pig sties and at the end there was a farmyard with two milking cows where I remember buying a can of milk during a milk strike sometime in early 1950s.

  36. Great memories, Joe; many thanks. bjg

  37. That’s very interesting, Pat. I’ve always believed that more people swam in the canals in Dublin than ever boated on them, and it’s a neglected aspect of Dublin (and waterways) history. I have written an (unpublished) article on the subject, but you’ve just added more information! bjg

  38. I don’t know the area myself but you might find it useful to ask in the Dublin City section on boards.ie. bjg

  39. Hi again Pat yes thats the stables on Kellys lane parallel to phibsboro rd. The stables were at the back of the shop. It was I am sure a sweet shop since thats the business we are in. There was an earlier reference in this article to a sweet shop called the black cat I wonder was that it. I am pretty sure it was then turned into a bike shop after my father left. Maybe your friend Francis might recall.

  40. My older sister recalls the shop, on the left at the corner of Kellys Lane, facing on to Phibsboro Road. She said there were 2 or 3 steps and boxes of vegetables used be displayed on either sides of the steps. Despite enquiries, I haven’t been able to find any more information

  41. Hi Pat once again thank you for your efforts, yes this indeed was my grandfathers shop in other enquiries I have made some people remember the steps going up into the shop that sold grocery, veg, sweets etc and they think our name hamiltons was the name over the door. Like you my eldest sister remembers going for the milk at the end of kellys lane for her nanny hamilton. From the sound of things then hard but happy times.

  42. Pat as a youngfella on the van with my father I remember delivering sweets to shops on mountjoy street back in the sixties. There was Miss Morrisons shop which was on the corner, she ran the the shop with her brother Amby. I think there was a school up the lane beside the shop. We also done a shop opposite morrisons which I think was called Healys would this area be part of the broadstone area. I also remember a shop up opposite the church with a huge boot on the roof.

  43. Does anyone remember the old State cinema being called the Blacquiere picturehouse. I remember my father, who used to drive a horse and cart into the markets, from north co Dublin in the 40′s/50′s talking about the Blacquiere bridge ,picture house & school.

  44. The Blacquire picture house was built in 1913 by William King.He ran it until the late 1930s.
    I have some pictures and details on the history of the picture house which I must give to the local Library.
    Brian W King

  45. Thanks for that information, Brian. let me know when the library receives them.I would like to see them.
    Sean McDonnell

  46. The cinema that was demolished to make way for the State was called the Phibsboro Cinema, known locally as the ‘Phizzer’. It was originally called the Blacquire (before my time!), presumably after the adjacent Blacquire bridge on the North Circular Road which crossed the canal where the library is today. The canal continued on down where the park now is and eventually to the Broadstone Harbour.
    The screen in the ‘Phizzer’ was about 7 or 8 feet from the ground and the front seats were only about 4 feet from the screen, or wall! Any child caught misbehaving was sent up to these seats and would have a seriously strained neck at the end of the film. The last film I can remember seeing there was ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’. We always considered the nearby Bohemian to be a superior cinema. When the State was built it was ‘state-of-the-art’ for the time. A novel and welcome innovation, as we left childhood behind, were the double seats in the back row of the balcony… sin sceal eile!
    I wonder if Brian King is the same one as was involved with the Print Museum?

  47. Here’s a few more bits of interest.

    p424 in The Dublin Penny Journal shows an illustration of the Broadstone Aqueduct, Phibsborough:

    http://books.google.ie/books?id=9gLSAAAAMAAJ&pg=PP13&dq=phibsborough&lr=&as_drrb_is=q&as_minm_is=0&as_miny_is=&as_maxm_is=0&as_maxy_is=&as_brr=1&as_pt=ALLTYPES&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=phibsborough&f=false

    or use:

    http://tinyurl.com/7rqmcly

    LUAS BROOMBRIDGE
    Advance Archaeological Testing
    at Broadstone
    Assessment Report:

    http://www.dublinluasbroombridge.ie/Downloads/EIS/BXD_EIS_Book_5_Annexes/BXD_EIS_Book_5_Annex_M1.pdf

    or use:

    http://tinyurl.com/7mdruf2

    Also further info on Mallets on the Irish Architectural Archive:

    http://www.dia.ie/architects/view/3346

    After Millets moved on, Dublin North City Milling Co. Ltd., The North City Mills moved in.
    Info on one of their Managing Director, Patrick Egan, here:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrick_Egan_%28land_reformer_and_diplomat%29

    According to Industrial Heritage Ireland:
    ‘Located in Phibsborough, this former mill is located beside the Royal Canal and was also served by its own railway siding from Liffey Junction.

    Water was supplied from the Royal Canal to power the mill. As the Lock above the mills is at a higher level, it was possible to take water from here and pipe it through the mill, returning it to the canal below the lock.’
    ref: http://www.industrialheritageireland.info/TikiWiki/tiki-index.php?page=North+City+Mills

  48. only buildings not mentioned 4 cottages on 6th level as i live in one of them we are trying to create history of them thanks Vinny

  49. Brian Lynch, Portmarnock, Co Dublin.

    Like many of your commentators,the general area was our playground also,as we lived on St Attracta Rd in Cabra, attended St Peters School and St Vincents Primary and secondary School.The Phibsborough CBS were called the Panama Troop as this was the name of the building they occupied. This building was located behind the library and It was a corrugated half circular structure.My admittadly vague reccollection is that the site was originally a dry doc for boat repairs, which fell out of use due to decline in demand,and this turn of events led to the scouts becoming the occupants, thus fulfilling the old wisdom-one man`s meat is another man`s poison,I suppose it`s fair to say. In it`s stead now stands a proper concrete structure,with secure parking and my guess is that the Dept of Justice are the new owners. My brother Terry and myself were members of St Peters Church choir,conductor Peter Summerville and the Christmas treat was all members were invited, free of charge, to the Bohemian Cinema,from which two films in particular stand out. One was “Lassie” A story of a remarkable return journey, with bleeding paws,having travelled over a hundred miles, once she escaped from the wretched thieves who had taken her from the elderly gentle owner,pining for her return.We had our own Wicklow Collie at this time,and every heartwrenching scene in the film found it`s mark in us.You know I think I saw a tear in Terry`s eye,but thought it better not to mention this. The other was Mario Lanza in “The Great Caruso” wonderful memories from wonderful times. Alfie Byrne was going to arrange for us to be allowed get off school in the summer if it turned out to be a sunny day.Was I the only guy in the entire School who believed him, in fairness he did say, so far the minister had not agreed to the proposal, but he was optimistic:The 40`s and 50`s –Cabra/Phibsboro- It was a great time and place to be there. Brian Lynch.

  50. We used to swim in the dry doc and we had a raft there also. Dangerous if you couldn’t swim as it was about 20 ft deep.I later worked in Dakota on the same site. Also many happy memories of the ‘Boh’ and Bulldog keeping us in order. Alfie Byrne’s other great political promise was ‘to put shoes on the footless’! It was indeed a great time and place to have grown up.

    In relation to a previous contributor, Freddie Hamilton (18/1/12), I saw a van with the name ‘Freddie Hamilton Wholesale’ on the M3 recently and wondered was it the same person?

  51. Hi Pat and other broadstone and phibsboro contributors,yes indeed pat that was one of my vans which is the wholesale business my grandfather william started from his shop at 215 Phibsborough road in or about 1928 delivering from a horse and car which were kept in kellys lane at the back of the shop and he was there working with my father until the mid fifties when my dad who was also freddie moved to bray, they also supplied coal etc in the early days. I am looking to see if i can get a photo of that side of the road back then as can only seem to see the opposite side where the all saints church is.

  52. Do you remember the long low cottage at the ‘crossroads’ in Kelly’s Lane, where the pole was in the centre? My friend Francis Byrne lived there in the late 1940s and early 50s. The cottage at that time was about 150 yrs old.

  53. Hi Pat no I was not born until 1957 and am only going on stories about kellys lane and the shop from my father who died in 1975 and my grandfather died in 1954 so i am craving for any information or old photos i can get about that area of Phibsboro road.

  54. Came across the site whilst browsing and thought it may be of interset to comment on the Spencer Dock lifting bridge to the canal. We lived on the North Wall quite close to the Dock in the late 30s and my late brother and I very often watched the Bridge being lifted; mainly for an old coaler, the Saint Mungo, to enter and unload its cargo of coal in the adjacent coal yard. The Bridge Master was a delightful old type character who was always smartly dressed and always wore a bowler hat. He took great pleasure in timing his own measured passage under the bridge as it was lowering to emerge at a very steady pace with the bridge about one foot over his head. I suppose the canal was navigable at the time as I remember a british motor boat, it must have been just before the war, tied up outside on the Liffey bank, waiting for the appropriate level of tide to be reached for entry.

  55. That’s very interesting[ thanks, Peter. I see that there were two Saint Mungos, both owned by Heitons; the first was sunk in the first world war while the second (pic here) was built in 1920 and scrapped in 1953, which fits the dates you give. The Bridge Master is someone I didn’t know about and I’d welcome more information if anyone has it. The Royal Canal was not officially closed until 1966 but the last trader, Leech of Killucan, ceased operating in 1951; I have an article about Leech here. bjg

  56. Pingback: Vanished Dublin: Royal Canal Harbour | Sibling of Daedalus

  57. Pingback: Canal carrying 1846: the Royal Canal | Irish waterways history

  58. Does anyone remember a Margaret Mahon who lived at 67 royal canal bank she would have been 28 in 1961 and worked as a printer

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